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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.